The World Indigenous Games come to Palmas

It’s actually happening! 

The inaugural World Indigenous Games is here (Jogos Mundiais dos Povos Indígenas), in Palmas. After much, inevitable speculation that it would not be ready, it has followed the Greece Olympics and the 2014 Brazil World Cup and defied the doomsayers. I have been here for 10 months and throughout that time the only time it has been mentioned has been to criticise the lack of progress.

But, against all expectations, the games are under way, and I was lucky enough to attend the opening ceremony.

Apparently, there is a queue in here somewhere

Once we figured out where the queue started (it was like a weaving, slithering headless snake, with absolutely no organisation like simple barriers), we queued for an hour and entered at 5.30pm, bang on time for the ceremony to start. Of course, no-one expects the ceremony to start at 5.30pm, and the stadium duly filled up by around 7pm. President Dilma arrived by helicopter and the ceremony finally started at 8pm after Dilma was booed and applauded in equal measure (the audience was heavy on politicians who know not to piss on the barbeque that feeds them).

The ceremony presented all of the indigenous groups competing in the games. Group by group they appeared on the field, each group singing and chanting, and wearing their vibrant traditional costumes. The many Brazilian groups entered first, with a great variety of costumes, headdresses, face and body paint. The international groups followed, which rarely matched the Brazilian groups.

All the various indigenous groups gathered at the end

Nicaragua seemingly didn’t receive the email to come in traditional dress or embrace their indigenous culture – they strolled lazily onto the field in matching tracksuits, trainers and baseball caps, taking selfies and filing the other groups.

The New Zealand Maori perform their ritual chant

On the contrary, New Zealand were possibly the most impressive of the international groups, presenting the Haka, and displaying their skills with various indigenous weapons such as the spear.

There were a few minor events. One group sang around a fire on the field, and there was a log-carrying race. A Brazilian group sang their interpretation of the national anthem, using their instruments and singing style.

Once the ceremony finished, all of the thousands of competitors remained on the field, each involved with their own groups and performing their own songs, chants, and so on. This was the most incredible site, to witness scores of different indigenous groups from all around the world, each performing their ancient traditions all in the same place. Probably the first time in history that such a gathering has taken place.

Palmas is alive with visitors, the driving has become even worse as outsiders don’t understand the road system here (there are very few signs, it’s all about memory), but hopefully everyone will have a great experience for the duration of the games.

*The website for the games surprisingly works, and is in three languages.

http://www.jogosmundiaisindigenas.com/